INTODUCTION

Italian food is known all over the world, but after living here we see that only certain types of Italian food have been exported, mainly pizza and pasta. Just as Italians brought their food with them when they emigrated, so have immigrants to Italy brought their own food. Kebab shops are quite common, many of them serving pasta dishes as well as gyros shaved from large skewered pieces of meat. This is of concern to some Italians who feel that they should be promoting their own food, not foreign food. Some northern Italian towns have banned foreign food from their historic centers. We read Fabio Parasecoli's article about this (http://www.i-italy.org/13883/polenta-vs-cous-cous-legally-banning-ethnic-food-northern-italy). In fact, the MacDonald's of Siena used to be right on the Piazza della Posta, but is now located outside of the city walls. MacDonald's is, of course, a huge multinational corporation, not simply foreign food from America. 

 

It's astounding to think that what we know of Italian food is marked by ingredients that migrated here, sometimes with the people who grew and ate them and sometimes without. The citrus fruits which once formed the backbone of the southern Italian economy were brought there by the Arabs in the 10th century when they occupied Sicily. Italian food was transformed a couple centuries later, when foods from the Americas migrated into Italy. Below students, using our text Food and Culture in Italy by Fabio Parasecoli, outline five  originally American foods that migrated over and became "native" as they were incorporated into Italian cooking.

tomato sauce
tomato sauce

TOMATOES

Lana

 

Tomatoes were considered toxic when they first arrived and were only used ornamentally. It wasn’t until the 18th century that tomatoes became incorporated in diets in southern Italy. Tomatoes became popular in Italy because they could be preserved in various ways allowing Italians to eat them in the winter. They were dried in the sun, pureed and stored in cans, and made into a paste. Tomatoes are also available as either peeled (pelati), crushed (polpa), pureed (passata) or paste (concentrato). These different forms are all offered year round, usually in cans or jars, and can be found at almost every grocery store and market. Tomatoes add both color and flavor to dishes and today can be found in many different forms. There are fresh tomatoes, of course, that can be put on salads, like the famous caprese salad, or thrown into a pasta dish or grilled with a secondi. Fresh tomatoes are most popular during the summer when they are at their peak but they are available year round. Different varieties exist throughout Italy, such as the San Marzano from Campania or cherry tomatoes from the south. Tomatoes are the base of Italian food for they can be used to create an infinite number of sauces to cover pasta. 


dried Corn
dried Corn

MAIZE

Ryan

Maize or corn was introduced to Italy in the 16th century after the discovery of the New World sparked the Columbian Exchange. Northern Italy immediately took an interest in maize. One reason was that farmers were able to keep it after growing it, without paying taxes or giving a portion of the harvest to the landowners. It became so popular that in certain parts of Italy, such as Veneto, it almost replaced other grains that had been used for centuries. Maize was appreciated as corn on the cob, grilled and boiled. The biggest use of it, though, was as polenta. To make this popular northern Italian dish, kernels are ground into flour, without eliminating the kernel germ. This flour is then simmered in boiling water.. Polenta is commonly enjoyed with a sauce. Tomato sauce is usual but in Veneto the sauce is sometimes made with horsemeat, or even larks.


In the past, in the northern regions of Italy that used corn for their main carbohydrate, people began suffering from an illness called pellagra. It’s a serious illness that can lead to dementia and death. At first people thought that corn carried this disease, but it was discovered that pellagra comes from a lack of niacin. Native Americans did not suffer from this vitamin deficiency because they prepared corn in such a way that niacin was made available. So, the food migrated, but not the way of preparing it.


potato gnocchi
potato gnocchi

POTATOES

Ellie

 

The biggest ecological revolution in history, known as Colombian Exchange, brought new products to Europe, including potatoes, which went through a long process of adaptation in Italy; they were not integrated into Italian foodways until the seventeenth century (24). Introduced in the 16th century, potatoes were not widely adopted until the 18th century, despite their popularity in other parts of Europe (60). During an economic recession in 1620, famines that resulted became less harsh due to the adoption of products like potatoes that had not yet had a presence in peasant’s diets (27). Potatoes ensured the survival of many populations during hard times and long winters. They can be gathered between April and November, and when harvested in spring, they are smaller and softer, with a higher water content and thinner skin (60). Older potatoes, with less water and higher starch content can be used in many ways: ones with white pulp can be mashed and used in purees, croquettes, etc.; yellow pulped potatoes are better for frying, cooking in pieces, and for salads (60). Potato flour is useful for cookies, or to lighten dough high in fats and eggs (60).

 

In Italy, potatoes can be mashed into a puree with butter and milk, fried, sautéed, boiled for a salad, roasted with grilled meat or fish, baked under wood-fire ashes, and sliced and baked in a terrine with different ingredients such as mushrooms or cheese (tiella di riso; cozze e patate) (60). In some recipes, potatoes are diced and cooked in a soup with other vegetables to which small-sized pasta is added: pasta e patate (61). When mashed and mixed with eggs, small pieces of salami and ham, pepper, and chopped parsley into a mozzarella-filled pie, the mix is cooked in a frying pan to create frittata di patata (61). In Tuscany and Romagna, potatoes mixed with eggs and cheese are used to fill ravioli-shaped fresh pasta: tortelli di patata (61). Potatoes are often consumed with other vegetables, such as artichokes or string beans, in warm or cold salads (61). Probably the most renowned Italian dish made of potatoes is gnocchi; usually made with white pulped tubers, considered more floury, boiled, passed through a strainer, and kneaded with wheat flour; some add eggs to make the dough more solid. They can be seasoned in many ways, the simplest being the addition of melted butter and cheese; in Lombardy, melted butter is mixed with garlic, sage, and grated parmigiano reggiano; elsewhere a light tomato sauce is preferred, while some use think meat and tomato sauce; in Liguria, basil pesto is a favorite condiment (61). 


pumpkin tortelloni
pumpkin tortelloni

PUMPKIN

Daryl

 

            The use of pumpkin in Italian cooking is somewhat limited. It is most commonly served baked, as a purèe, as a side dish or in different rice or pasta dishes such as pumpkin risotto.   Nevertheless, different regions of Italy utilize this fruit in different ways. Sicilian cooks often take a pumpkin, dice and fry it and then sauté it with sugar and vinegar. In Mantova, in Lombardy, they make a tortelli di zucca which is a variety of pasta that is stuffed with pumpkin, amaretto cookies, and mustard-flavored candied fruits. These are some of the most notable ways in which a pumpkin is used in Italy.

            Pumpkins are a kind of winter squash, good for storage. Summer squash, such as zucchini are very popular across Italy. Their low caloric content makes them a popular choice for summer dishes. They are prepared in various ways including being fried, braised, grilled or even just diced and sautéed with fresh herbs. 


PEPPERS

Laura


Italy has a number of native vegetables, which have played a significant role in the dietary patterns of Italians over centuries. In the 16th century vegetables were a sign of wealth and were most commonly found on the tables of the rich or noble. In present day Italy, a large number of vegetables have been introduced. Salads and raw vegetable dishes are present as side dishes and can often serve as the entire meal in the summer. Although the supermarket culture of Italy has made frozen vegetables available to all, many still retain the knowledge of when vegetables are in season. Younger generations are also taking note of the freshness, starting to prefer restaurants that favor changing their menus to reflect seasonal vegetables.

 

Sweet peppers, pepperoni, are a relatively new addition to Italian food culture. They originated in Central and South America, crossing the ocean as part of the Columbian Exchange following the arrival of Spain to the Americas. Slowly the pepper seeds spread throughout Europe, eventually finding their way into the Italian diet. Because of their round shape, peppers can be stuffed, sliced and eaten raw, pickled, baked, sautéed, fried and so on. Spicy peppers, peperoncino, red and green are prominent in the south, specifically Abruzzo and Calabria. Peppers are used fresh or dried in a myriad of ways, also soaked in oil to make the oil spicy.